The Horizontal Falls

The Horizontal Falls tour has been on our bucket list for a while, since about 2008 when we first heard about them. This trip we finally managed to get our ducks to line up. We hadn't intended to take the Falls tour this time either, it is a costly exercise. Family raving about their Falls experience convincing us to book in the end.

The day started with us being picked up from the Caravan park by bus. Our tour was an overnighter and we would be flying out from Derby. The bus trip was about two and a half hour drive from Broome. The bus was about the size of a Hi Ace Van which I though would be a bit claustraphobic for that length of time but ended up adequate for the trip.

Arriving at the airport we were directed into the departure lounge where we sat through a safety video on the aircraft we were flying in. After that we were assigned to a Pilot and then taken to the waiting seaplane. This was our first time on a seaplane and was a bit concerned again how squished in we would be. While i wouldn't call it palatial, there was enough room in the seat to be comfortable for the 30 minute flight.

Taking off from Derby airport we headed out towards Talbot Bay mainly passing over land which made the flight a little bumpy in places especially for those who were a bit nervious. We flew at approx 3,500 Metres above the ground giving a good view of the rugged terrain below. Landing in Talbot Bay, we came in from the Southeast and touched down just before the pontoon which would be home for the next 18 hours. The pontoon consisted of 3 large house boats tied together. On two of the houseboats the lower level consisted mainly of the accomodation, and a platform area used for moring the planes and boats and a marine swimming enclosure. The upper level was mainly dedicated to where we could sit, eat and drink. A third houseboat was dedicated for staff use only.

Disembarking the plane we were first shown to our room. The rooms were all named, ours was called Mangrove Forest and was not much bigger than the queen size bed that was in it. It included a small chest of draws and enough room for 2 of us to stand with the door closed. It was clean and tidy but our blind across the large window didn't quite go all the way down. I guess dressing with the lights on was not an option. From there we went upstairs to enjoy a complementary cup of coffee and wait for what happens next.

When the last plane of people arrived were we then escorted to the one of the waiting speed boats. This boat would hold about 30 odd people and had four, 300 HP outboard motors to power it. Taking our seats we cast off and headed up river to a location called Cyclone Bay. Our guide explained this is a safe haven and where the pontoon is moored during the wet season or if a cyclone was headed towards them. We then turned back towards Talbot Bay, past the pontoon and then onto where the Horizontal Falls were located. These are not actually vertical falls as we know them but small openings between a landlocked bay and open ocean. During tide shifts the water builds up imense pressure trying to flow from one bay to the next, giving an impression of water flowing over a small cliff edge.

There are two openings, one about twenty metres wide and one about seven metres wide. Our guide gave us a great amount of information about the science and cultural significance of the falls. We then took the exhilarating ride though the larger opening passing back and forth a number of times. We then nosed up to the smaller opening but did not pass through it as this was not allowed, mainly due to safety but also cultural reasons. Once we had been back and forth and taken many photos we then headed back to the Pontoon.

The next activity was a swim in the water enclosure. This was a safe swimming spot within the bay and where you could get up close and personal with some six foot Tawny Nurse sharks. You could sit in the water watching as our guide fed these sharks and any other fish who would take the food.

Following the swim the Bar was opened and nibbles were served where we could mingle and watch the sunset behind towering cliffs. Later in the evening a buffet dinner was laid out consisting of fried Barramundi fish, potatoes and salad, post main course we were then served a desert. After talking with a number of people we eventually retired to bed about Nine PM.

Next morning we were up at Five AM. Getting dressed we headed upstairs to watch and take photos of the sun rising slowly over the surrounding ranges. We then indulged ourselves in a cooked breakfast at Six AM. Our original morning schedule had us re-boarding the speed boat for another quick pass through the falls then board the sea plane at Eight Thirty AM for our flight back to Derby, then board the bus for the return journey to Broome. This is where the scheduled change a bit. At breakfast we were informed a thick fog had settled over Broome and was preventing any of the planes from taking off. The morning tours of the new guests had been cancelled as well as some of the afternoon tours. For us there was no rush to head back as there were no planes to pick us up.

After a small delay we once again boarded the speed boat and went for another look at the falls, this time with them running in the opposite direction. Like last time we did a number of passes through the large opening and then nosing up to the smaller opening all the time taking lot of photos. The planes still hadn't taken off so they took us for a tour around Slug Island before returning to the pontoon for morning tea. Here we were further updated and told the planes were still delayed but would fly out empty to pick us up at Ten Thirty AM.

Once again we were back into the speed boat heading for another quick trip to the falls but this time we were treated to what the falls looked like at the bottom of low tide. It looked like a millpond in both of the openings. This is not something people see and gave us a perspective on what the tides looked like in full flow, and when nothing is flowing. They say there is a 30 second window between the tide change before you start to see it flow in the opposite direction which we were able to witness.

Returning to the pontoon we were in time to see the planes starting there approach to pick us up. Another plus for us, we found out instead of flying back to Derby and catching the bus back to Broome they flew us directly back to Broome saving us the two hour trip by bus. The staff were excellent and really adaptable when things started to go a bit off track. We did briefly feel a bit sad for those who had their trip cancelled and maybe not have had the opportunity to rebook due to other commitments but thanked our lucky stars that it worked for us for a change.